Four-hundred forty-four miles long, the Natchez Trace extends from southern Mississippi across the corner of Alabama, into the middle of Tennessee. The Trace was originally a footpath traveled by Native Americans, European explorers, and early settlers hundreds and thousands of years ago. The National Park System wanted to preserve the history of the path, and did so by building a road that roughly follows the trail.
The Trace was designed to be a scenic byway. Two lanes wind and curve, buffered by stunning scenery on each side, mostly forests or farm fields scattered with hay bales. I drove on pieces of it in January and February- probably the bleakest time of the year- and it was gorgeous. I would love to go back in other seasons to hike, take pictures, and just experience another layer of the area’s character.
Waysides are built all along the route. Drive or bike the Trace at your own pace, stopping at whatever place names and interpretive signs interest you. (My favorite name for a stop was ‘Dogwood Mudhole.’ The stop itself was nothing special in February. I’m not sure if dogwoods actually bloom there in spring, or if the name is only a relic of a former landscape.) Some points of interest include: Native American Indian mounds, a museum in the Visitor’s Center, waterfalls, a Craft Center, military sites, overlooks, intersections with the Trail of Tears, interpretive trails, old cemeteries, former guesthouses, a cypress swamp, ruins of buildings, state parks, and sections of the old trace itself, where you can walk on the same path as the Native Americans and early settlers. Access points to the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail, with over 60 miles of hiking trails (over 50 of them open to horseback riding), are available from the Trace.
Driving the Trace reminded me of my trip across South Dakota to the Badlands [which you can read about here], and of the legacy of Route 66. It’s the whole idea of driving on one road and stopping at a bucketload of attractions along the way, so the point of the trip is the journey, not the destination.
Adding to the beauty of the Trace, no businesses are situated along the road. If you want to get gas or buy something to eat or stop for the night, you need to get off the Trace and stop in a nearby town. (Guides detailing restaurants, attractions, shopping, recreation, and more in nearby towns are available online and in print. Many of these towns are tiny, and you will be supporting small, independent businesses.) No commercial vehicles are allowed on the road, either. The Trace has a speed limit of 50 mph (or less, in some areas) to allow you to soak in the views.
I don’t think I had even heard of the Natchez Trace before my big road trip. What’s more surprising is discovering that there are Tennessee residents who have never heard of it! While it’s easier to enjoy a park when it has few visitors, I have to say that the Natchez Trace is severely underrated and deserves more attention. Granted, I was not there during peak season, but I was still surprised at how little traffic was on it. At times, it felt like they had constructed the elaborate highway just for me.
I drove on my first portion of the Trace during the government shutdown. This meant that none of the buildings were open- no restrooms, no water fountains, no visitor’s centers. I guess I should be glad the place was open at all. But every time I wanted to go to the bathroom, I had to get off the Trace and search for one. Luckily, when I went back on it later, the government was up and running.
I would recommend the Natchez Trace to history buffs, nature lovers, photographers, hikers, bikers, and anyone who loves a road trip. It was one of my favorite parts of my year-long trip around the United States.